1. To promote organic sustainable food raising for home gardens and farms.
2. To foster research into improved methods of organic farming and gardening.
3. To provide information and support to all those interested in the various aspects of organic growing.
3rd Thursday of the Month
The Meeting Place, Cnr Guineas Creek Rd and Coolgardie St, Elanora. Doors open: 7:00 pm. Begin at 7:30 pm
Entry is $2 members, $5 visitors.
(No meeting in December)
Annual Membership Fees:
Single: $20. Family: $30.
To renew or start memberships please transfer funds directly into our bank account, send cheques (payable to GCOG) to Diane Kelly, or just pay at the door.
Name: Gold Coast Organic Growers
Seed Bank: Packets are $2.00 each.
Members’ Market Corner:
Please bring plants, books and produce you wish to sell or trade.
This relies on the kind generosity of members to donate items on the night. Tickets - $1each or 3 for $2.
Library: Books 50c, Videos, DVDs $2, Soil Test Kit $2. Available to members for 1 month.
(Note 11 issues/year)1/4 page: $15 an issue, or $145 per year, 1/2 page: $25 an issue, or $250 per year, full page: $40 an issue, or $400 per year,
Newsletter Contributions are welcome. Send in a photo of what’s going on in your patch. Deadline for contributions is the one week before the meeting. Send your content to Jorge C. at: email@example.com
NEW: You can now pay your membership fee directly into the GCOG bank account.
Name: Gold Coast Organic Growers
Remember to put your Name and Membership Number in the comment field.
Note the number in brackets after your name is your membership number - you will need to quote this number in the comment field, if you pay via online banking.
Membership Renewals – May 2018:
Overdue: Andrew & Helen Blum (344), Alan Ralph (394), Katrina Julienne & Finn Eber (419), Jun Yoneda (428), Emma Strong (429), Sally Machray (430), Angela Anderson (323), Fran Janes (366), Elizabeth Grippo (405), Rebecca Bowen (422), Lorraine McArthur (423), Sue Beckinsale (373), Nancy Hageman (388), Deborah Phillips (408)
May: Bruce Kelly & Heather Ryan (234)
June: Shelley Pryor (72), Jan Wright (191), Karen Hart (198), Mea Lea Khoo (211), Dorothy Coe (253), Ron Campbell (255), Cathie Hodge (304), Eileen Turner (328), Shem Pireh (361)
Latest newsletter can be downloaded from the site at goldcoastorganicgrowers.org
Thanks to Contributors this month: Neil Ross, Diane Kelly, Audrey Mates-Bills, Jill Barber, Jorge Cantellano, and Dorothy Coe.
We are currently seeking Guest Speakers for throughout 2018. If you have an idea for a potential speaker, or a topic that you think would interest our members, please contact Leah Johnston at firstname.lastname@example.org
Upcoming workshops with The Herbal Gardener
(half day workshops on Saturdays)
Vitality, Healthy Weight and Happy Gut for Everyone
Natural Remedy Cabinet
2 June & repeated on 16 June
Herbal Tincture Making
Herbal Syrup Making
More more info and bookings goto:
https://theherbalgardener.com.au/collections/workshops or call 0419021606
To some extent, this reflects nature’s way of propagation. For example, there are no straight lines, random distribution and plant pecking order. When bringing this element into the house garden, an observation of your landscape is required!
The best results come with a soil teaming with biological activity and good drainage. Beginning from a bare allotment, that has been mulched and covered to block out previous plants and weeds, grow a blanket planting of a desirable ground cover.
Your plants or seeds will be from your weekly seeding selection, randomly placed in the garden with a marker. Each week the same method could be used with a different type of plant, from deep rooting to shallow rooting, bulbous types that will give you your meal requirements. Only grow what you like and that will be beneficial or harvested when you need it!
From the seasonal plant list, select and categorise preferences that you would like to have and would use on an annual planting guide for SE Sub Tropical area. Highlight the start of the seeding time through to the last possible transplant.
From the time line to harvest notes, highlight when you can incorporate the beginning of your grown harvest selections into the daily menus. These time lines can be extended with crop protection.
Using a transparency envelope over your seeding chart, you mark the number of seeds or seedlings incorporated into the garden, for example, one cabbage, three carrots and a bunch of spring onions, to be harvested for the menus of the future week.
Each planting should incorporate the threes of each variety: one for you, the weak one that’s culled, and the one that’s preserved for out of
season, or given away. If nature has spit the dummy, waste not, want not: make a contribution to the worm farm for beneficial worm tea.
The benefits of relay planting
(Edited from Ben G. Bareja, 2010)
Relay intercropping or relay cropping is a system in which a second crop is planted into an existing crop when it has flowered (reproductive stage), but before harvesting. There is thus a minimum temporal overlap of two or more crops. The relay crop should be fairly tolerant to shade.
Advantages of Crop Rotation Compared to Monoculture
In addition to increased crop yields and profit, the following are the advantages of crop rotation over monoculture, the continuous growing of a single crop.
1. Better control of weeds. Crop rotation is intended to break the life cycle and suppress the growth of weeds. The sequential planting of different crops may check the development of any weed species, and reduce weed growth, especially if using cover crops or green manure crops.
2. Better control of pests and diseases. Some pests and causal organisms of plant diseases are host specific. They attack certain crop species or those belonging to the same family, but not other crops of a different family. This is because food will always be available to the pest. However, if a legume is planted as the next crop, then corn, beans and bulbs, the build- up of the pest will be disrupted because they will be deprived of food.
3. Improved soil structure and organic matter content. The alternate planting of deep and shallow rooted plants will break up the soil, and green manure will add significant amounts of organic matter.
4. Improved soil fertility. The continuous growing of a single crop will result in the depletion of certain soil nutrients. With crop rotation,
on the other hand, soil fertility will be promoted through alternate planting of crops having different nutrient needs. This will prevent the depletion of any one essential element present in the soil. Leguminous plants will improve soil fertility because of their ability to accumulate nitrogen by fixing it from the air in association with Rhizobium bacteria.
Members and guests are always very welcome at our meetings, and we trust you find them enjoyable and interesting.
To cover the various costs of hall hire, insurance etc, it was decided at our February (AGM) meeting to make the member entry fee $2.00 – and for visitors, the cost will be $5.00. We’ve not increased our prices since our Club started 20 years ago, so we hope you will understand the need to make this change.
In the section BELOW our members can ask about cuttings, seeds or plants that they would like to obtain, or where we could let others know about anything that we might have spare and would like to share around.
So if you would like to let the Club members know about any particular plant you are looking for, or if you can help out and provide a plant that someone has asked for please email Diane with the details at email@example.com
PLANT POTS, NATIVE PLANTS, EDIBLE TREES,
SEEDLINGS, CUTTINGS REQUIRED
Cathy Beard’s Murwillumbah project update.
Due to stolen, destroyed pot plants and garden I have lost all my plants to donate to Murwillimbah so I have decided to collect seeds and collate a little hub for them to donate to new gardeners and encourage growth in their backyards.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR VOLUNTEER
for EdibleScapes Inc.
At EdibleScapes Inc. we are seeking long term volunteer interested in social ecological and environmental sustainable development.
If you want to join a team of like-minded in urban agroecology, we want you on-board.
Connect with us at: firstname.lastname@example.org
I could not believe when I looked back through my records – I have not previously recommended that “If you only do One Thing this Month – Plant some Broccoli” !! I’ve quoted Peter Cundall – February 2014 article – saying that broccoli is a “nitrogen hungry” crop; in October 2013 I wrote in a “Getting to Know” article about how Beth Orme uses sacrificial plants to encourage grubs away from her broccoli plants; and in an article in October 2012 I quoted the recommendation to “pick young & tender broccoli heads when they are tiny and sweet”.
But I’ve not actually suggested we grow broccoli – so seeing there is a planting window in South East Queensland between April and July, let’s give it a go!
Probably my favourite use of broccoli is in a stir-fry, but a close second would be home-made broccoli soup. And, of course, the florets add a lovely crunch to salads.
So how do we go about preparing for; planting; growing and harvesting broccoli – and what likely pests and problems might we encounter?
The broccoli that we eat is actually the head of the plant which is harvested just prior to flowering – but the leaves and stems are also edible. And, as you have probably noticed if you have grown and harvested broccoli, once the central head is removed, the plant will continue to produce smaller florets lower down the stem. A broccoli plant can reach up to 50 cm in height.
The broccoli we buy in the shops are most likely to be the type that have a single, very large, compact head. But there is also “sprouting broccoli”, which produces numerous small, dense heads from side-shoots. Sprouting broccoli is a great “cut-and-come-again” vegetable, and can provide an addition to your vegetable meals for many months of the year.
Broccoli will appreciate a fertile soil in a sunny location to grow in. So you will need to enrich the planned garden bed well prior to planting – dig in some well-rotted manure or compost before you sow seeds or seedlings. Aim for a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.
If you are growing broccoli plants from seed, start them off in seed trays. Seedlings should appear in 14-18 days, and they can then be transferred into small pots or seedlings punnets until 10cm tall and ready for planting. Be wise when planting out broccoli – the plants would appreciate up to 60cm of space to grow, and they will continue growing for quite a number of months.
Close spacing tends to result in larger individual heads with smaller side shoots, whilst wider spacing encourages more sustained production of larger side shoots – your choice!
Be aware that broccoli plants can become top heavy, so they may require staking if the garden site is exposed. Also, remember that plants stressed by lack of nutrients or water form poor heads that run quickly to flower. After the first harvest from your plants, top dress the garden area with additional compost – and an application of fish-based fertilizer will be beneficial.
Your first harvest of broccoli may take some three months after planting, but once you cut the first head, successive harvests will be quick and continuous. Cut the immature heads as soon as they are well-formed. Three plants per adult member of the household will provide a harvest of several meals each week.
So …. what are the negatives? All brassicas suffer from similar pest and disease problems. Cabbage moths are the most likely challenge – regularly check the plant’s leaves to keep them at bay. One reason broccoli plants are subject to attack is planting them too early in the season whilst the weather remains hot. Other problems can include aphids, caterpillars, cabbage root fly and cutworms.
So ….. what are the positives? A crisp vegie to serve raw with dips; a tasty vegetable to add to stir fries and curries; something you can serve with roast meat or a hearty stew …. and I’ve found a “farfalle with broccoli and anchovy sauce” recipe that sounds like a quick and tasty meal.
Broccoli – an attractive, sturdy plant - the purple versions make an colourful addition to your vegie patch. So, in May, June and July …. plant some broccoli!
Come and Join us this Wednesday at 9:30am at the Worongary state school hall for a composting & recycling time with Chelsea McLean. We will make our in-ground worm farm in the seedlings garden after that and some planting of course. www.facebook.com/events/181619315985221/
The seedlings program is born from the concern that our children and the community as a whole are not getting enough education about healthy habits, connecting together and discovering new ways. Time is scarce, broken families and smaller dwellings means that most of our children have no idea how food grow, parents run out of healthy ideas for lunches/dinners and we seem to see each other but not connect to a deeper level as a community.
Audrey Mates-Bills, the founder originally from France, struggled with the idea of children eating on the floor cold sandwiches and chips for 15min when in her home country, schools feeds the children an entree, a main and a dessert at a table every day. Unfortunately to change this at such a large scale would be impossible.
With a children population growing heavier and environment majorly struggling with plastic intake, it didn’t take long to think of an alternative within our school system. Take a look at the amount of plastic in all lunch boxes it’s quite scary! Many schools now have plastic free day which is great. Many families can’t afford organic food and that is where the Program comes in.
The Seedlings garden function as a community garden but inside the premises of schools. It is the community itself that
keeps it alive. We find that schools are already running off their feet. Even though most schools have a veggie garden it only takes for that enthusiastic green thumb teacher to be transferred for the whole garden to fall apart. We have seen it too many times happen again and again. Children can now take part of the garden during big lunch, but also special children can have access to the garden when needed. The before, after & vacation care also help to its maintenance.
Educating children is a great step forward but we found that parents were the one making the food. Therefore, Seedlings Morning Sesh were created to empathize the sense of community and learning.
The organic fruit and vegetables will be sold for small cost to the community to generate funds for the garden allowing families to eat better and healthier food.
Everyone is welcome to the Morning sesh which runs at the moment from Worongary State School Hall every Wednesday from 9:30am and we hope that the program will multiply in many schools in the coming years.
If you want to present a topic or share some of your knowledge with the community please email us at email@example.com
This month we are looking at some hints for growing a variety of vegetables:
Ediblescapes reached two major milestones last Saturday, 12th of May:
The Edible Landscape Gardens projects area will be topped-up with approximate 100 cubic metres of composted made soil. The project is testing a system to produce 1 cubic metre per week, which will disperse over an area of 3 square meters of 30 centimetre thick of new garden section per week. At this pace the project will be completed in 2 years.
Each compost heap is built to about 1.3 x 1.3 metres to 1.3 metres high, and will be topped up in successive layers of brown (rich in carbon), and green (rich in nitrogen) organic material.
We collect veggie and fruit scraps daily from our local fruit market “Landies Fruit World” at My Centre Nerang shopping centre and our
local Farmers market “Markets Lavelle Street” Nerang on Sunday, weekly we collected about 9 tubs (42Lt bucket). Also, we gather weekly another 42Lt (1 tub) of coffee grounds from Cadence Café; 9 tubs of horse manure donate by Healing Hooves, a tenant of the Parkland; and 4 tubs of fresh grass clippings. This makes 7 layers of green material making up 23 tubs in total.
The 7 green layers are integrated between 8 layers of brown material. In total 25 tubs of mixed matured mulches, dry leaves, dry grass clippings, bamboo leaf/sheath are collected in the parkland. The collection and heaping process takes 14 hours of work per week.
As you can note, we now use a volume ration 1 to 1: brown to green tub volume. We started with the recommended ratio of 2 to 1. However, we learned that the density of leaves to veggie scrap in the tub is too loose in comparison to brown material density.
We have not sieved the mulch and any brown and green material has not been chopped. This is why our heap end is predominantly coarse material with less fine soil than you can expect from composting soil. The process has pasteurised the heap content and we believe it is free from weed, has produced a very nutrient rich material, which will act as slow release nutrients and minerals to the landscape soil. This is validated in the experience of Paul Gautschi’s “Back to Eden” deep mulch planting method.
Producing the composted material in 18 days requires 5 turns, maintaining the heat at 65° C during a least the first 3 turns. Each turn takes about 2 hours of very hard work. 10 hours in total of making a final one cubic metre. You can follow the process and information details in the documented photo journal at https://www.facebook.com/pg/n.ediblescapes/photos/
When we require fine composted soil, we will sieve the initial material. When the fine composted soil is required for seeding, we will screen it. This will add 3 and 5 respectively hours extra of work to the cubic metre.
How do you value the social and ecological impact and volunteer contribution of this project? In two years, the project will save 38 cubic metres (m3) of fruit and veggies scrap and 4,2 m3 of coffee grounds going to the tip. Also, it will sustainably upcycle 38 and 17 m3 of horse manure and green grass clipping, as well as 105 m3 of brown mix material: tree mulches, dry leaves, dry grass clippings, bamboo leaf/sheath.
In sum, the energy of 2800 working hours will be used to cultivate good soil which will be added to the edible landscape gardens for edible trees, edible plants and community to grow: co-creating a permanent educational, social, ecological site to pass on knowledge for the future generations.
EdibleScapes next practical demonstration workshop
Keyline Water Harvest”
will be on Saturday 9 June 8:30
at the Edible Landscape Gardens site
74 Billabirra Cres, Nerang.
This is a hands-on learning and working workshop where you will be taught how to store water in the ground via Keyline Water Harvest techniques.
The workshop is supported by Botanical Bazaar Garden Festival.
Limited spaces are available and pre-bookings are required for this workshop and will open shortly. Workshop cost is via Gold Coin Donation which is donated to the Edible Landscapes Project.
Traditional South African recipe for a sweet curry mince dish with a custard topping:
500g mince (lamb or beef)
1 – 2 Tbs oil
1 large onion – chopped
several garlic cloves (crushed)
herbs to taste, include bay leaves
1 ½ Tbs curry powder, or masala mix
2 tsp raisins
2 Tbs vinegar
Salt & pepper
1 lge slice stale bread crumbled for fresh crumbs
1 c milk
Method: Pre-heat oven to 180deg
1. Fry onion & crushed garlic
2. Add 1 Tbs curry or masala - stir
3. Add mince & toss
4. Add bread crumbs, raisins, salt & pepper
5. Leave to cook till just done
Serve with yellow rice (cooked with turmeric, ginger, chicken stock & a few raisins) and stewed dried peaches or banana slices.
Courtesy of Liz Louw, March 2018 “Australian Bio-dynamic Newsletter”
Please email your yummy recipes to Jill firstname.lastname@example.org
‘Interesting - I wondered why eggplants sometimes bitter but not always!’ (Dorothy)
Male eggplants tend to have fewer seeds, and are therefore less bitter than female eggplants. To sex an eggplant, look at the indentation at bottom. If it’s deep and shaped like a dash, it’s a female. If it’s shallow and round, it’s a male.
Smaller eggplants also tend to be less bitter. Freshness is important, so don’t store them for very long.
Source: The Cook’s Thesaurus, by Lori Alden.
OK “scandal” may be a bit tabloid but there has been an ongoing controversy regarding whether male eggplants are less bitter than female eggplants and whether eggplants actually have sex at all (bitter and frustrated?).
We’ve gone to the experts to set the record straight. Here’s what they said:
“Male” and “female” eggplant is a case of unfortunate terminology. “Vegetables,” such as eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and squash, are – botanically speaking – really fruits. The fruits themselves can’t be considered “male or female.
“Male pollen was transferred to female parts of the flower, resulting in the fruit we eat. Different varieties of eggplant may be more bitter and contain more noticeable seeds than others. Also, as an eggplant fruit matures, the seeds become more noticeable. So an eggplant picked when very mature to over-mature might appear “seedier” than others picked when less mature, even those from the same plant. Pick eggplant fruits when full size is reached but while the exterior is still a glossy purple. Once the exterior becomes dull purple, the eggplant fruit is over-mature.
Source: Robert Cox, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension Horticulture, Jefferson County.
Despite the ages old, old-wives tale that there are male and female eggplants and the male of the species is better eating –detected because it has an “outie” blossom end as opposed to the female “innie” blossom end – there is no such thing. I follow different old-wives adivce, learned from my many years of cooking with old wives in Italy.
Source: The Food Maven Diary, by Arthur Schwartz.
WE NEED YOUR
SEND US SOME TIPS ABOUT
GARDENING THAT YOU HAVE
DISCOVERED OR PERHAPS SOME INFO
ABOUT WHAT IS HAPPENING IN YOUR GARDEN.
NOTE: THE NEW DEADLINE FOR SUBMISSIONS TO
THE NEWSLETTER IS ONE WEEK PRIOR TO THE MEETING.
After removing our chook run and giving our back-yard a good tidy-up recently, it was time to move some garden beds around. And this time I decided to have another go at growing plants in bath tubs as well.
I mentioned my plan to Margaret, and she advised the following:
“They are especially good for 'bandicoot food' i.e. potatoes, sweet potatoes, muscari ( dwarf bluebells) & arrowleaf native violets. All have tubers that they love.”
Now this puzzled me for a moment, because I wondered why I would want to grow food for bandicoots! But then I realized that what was meant that bath tubs are good to grow those plants IN, because then they can’t be “bandicooted” for the tubers!!
So, with anticipation of the best time of the year for gardening, we’ll see how it all goes.
Custard Apples: Peak harvest period, harvest every 3-7 days. Don’t let trees dry out.
Figs: Dormant period. Don’t let trees dry out.
Lychee: Don’t let trees dry out. Fertilise trees this month. Mature trees (5 years and older) 1.5 kg organic fertiliser with sulphate of potash added per sq m to the drip line of trees. (For trees under 5 years, use only 50 grams.)
Low Chill Stone Fruit: Fertilise trees with 50 gms of organic fertiliser with sulphate of potash added per sq m to the drip line of trees. Prune off 2/3 of new growth.
Mango: Apply gypsum if soil pH is 6 or more. If below 6 pH, apply lime, 50 gms per sq m of either. Mature trees (5 years and older) 1.5 kg organic fertiliser with sulphate of potash added per sq m to the drip line of trees; water in well.
Passion-fruit: The water can be tapered off. Harvest fruit every 3-4 days under vines.
Pawpaw: If you have not applied boron, apply now. 1 teaspoon per tree. 40% of annual organic fertiliser can be applied e.g. 20 gms per sq m.
Persimmon: Decline water needs. Apply a little garden lime and gypsum, 20gms per sq m
Strawberries: Plants should be coming away well. A little organic fertiliser with sulphate of potash can be applied now. Use fish emulsion or kelp spray regularly over plants to keep in good health.
Bananas: Keep up the water. When fruit are formed, bag fruit with banana bag, tie bag to top of stem and drape down to bell. Leave open at bottom for air. Cut off bell to get larger fruit.
Citrus: Harvest should start this month, and continue until August. Keep up watering.
Avocado: Add garden lime, 20 grams per sq m to drip line and gypsum 20 grams per sq m again to drip line. Early varieties can be picked. Don’t let trees dry out.
Queensland Planting Guide, BOGI
Custard apples: Harvest every 3 to 4 days as fruit matures. Don’t let trees dry out.
Figs: Dormant period. Don’t let trees dry out.
Lychee: Do not let trees dry out. Minimal watering is needed. Check emerging flowers for flower caterpillars. If more than ½ are infested, spray with pyrethrum or garlic spray.
Mango: Don’t let the trees dry out.
Passion-fruit: Don’t let the vines dry out. Keep up the fish emulsion or kelp sprays every month. Small amount of organic fertiliser with added sulphate of potash can be applied to vines, 20 gms per sq m – for example, large vines = 100 gms; small vines = 50 gms.
Pawpaw: Spray with wettable sulphur if powdery mildew is a problem. Minimal water. Pick fruit at mature stage with ½ colour to have full flavour.
Persimmon: Dormant period. Minimal water required at this time.
Strawberries: Feed with organic fertiliser with added sulphate of potash. Also use fish emulsion and kelp spray regularly over plants to keep in good health. This will prevent fruit rot. Pick fruit when fully ripe. Keep plants fully watered – try not to wet the berries. This will prevent fruit rot. Mulch plants so the berries do not lie on the soil. Pine needs are good.
Bananas: Keep up the water and bag fruit. When fruit are formed, bag fruit with banana bag, tie bag to top of stem and drape down to bell. Leave open at bottom for air. Cut off bell to get larger fruit.
Citrus: Harvesting should be well under way. Keep up watering.
Avocado: Early flowers should appear this month. Keep up water needs. If you have not applied garden lime and gypsum, apply now as per June instructions.
Brisbane Organic Growers Handbook
Asian Greens, Beans (French), Beetroot, Broad beans, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Endive, Garlic, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leek, Lettuce, Mustard Greens, Onion, Parsnip, Pea, Potato, Radish, Shallots, Silverbeet, Snow Peas, Spinach, Tomato, Turnip.
Asian Greens, Asparagus Crowns, Beans (French), Beetroot, Broad Beans, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celeriac, Celery, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard Greens, Onion, Parsnip, Peas, Potato, Radish, Shallots, Silverbeet, Snow Peas, Spinach, Tomatoes, Turnips.
Annual: Borage, Calendula, Chamomile, Chervil, Coriander, Dill, Garlic, Giant Red Lettuce, Herb Robert, Italian parsley, Misome, Mizuna, Mustard Lettuce, Nasturtium, Rocket.
Perennials & Bi-Annuals: Catnip, Chicory, Chives, Perennial Coriander, Fennel, Hyssop, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lovage, Marjoram, Mint, Mushroom Plant, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Burnet, Winter Tarragon, Thyme, Upland Cress, Watercress, Winter Savoury.
Annual: Borage, Calendula, Chamomile,Chervil, Coriander, Dill, Garlic, Giant RedLettuce, Herb Robert, Italian parsley,Misome, Mizuna, Mustard Lettuce, Nasturtium, Rocket
Perennials & Bi-Annuals: Catnip, Chicory, Chives, Perennial Coriander, Fennel,Hyssop, Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lovage,Marjoram, Mint, Mushroom Plant, Oregano,Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, SaladBurnet, Winter Tarragon, Thyme, UplandCress, Watercress, Winter Savoury.
Whilst every effort is made to publish accurate information the association (including Editor, Executive Officers and Committee) accepts no responsibility for statements made or opinions expressed in this newsletter.
GCOG, PO Box 210, Mudgeeraba Q 4213
3rd Thursday of the Month
Cnr Guineas Creek Road
& Coolgardie Street
Elanora, Gold Coast
Thursday 21st June 2018